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Author Topic: 2" BL for about $70  (Read 947 times)

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  • Guest
2" BL for about $70
« on: May 11, 2015, 03:08:00 PM »
I got this from robcarync over at

Body Lift How To Install:

Body Lift Tips:

Body Lift How to Piece Together:

You need 10 pucks, and a bunch of nuts and bolts:

10 qty: 2" tall, 3" diamter off road body lift pucks
6 qty: 7/16" X 6" long thread pitch 14 GRADE 8 bolts
6 qty: 7/16" thread pitch 14 lock nuts (NOT nylon lock nuts)
12 qty: 7/16" washers
2 qty: M12 X 1.25 thread pitch X 180mm long GRADE 10.9 bolts
2 qty: M10 X 1.25 thread pitch X 160mm long GRADE 10.9 bolts

You may end up needing additional M12 washers for the two rear most body mounts...those are easy to find at any hardware store if you end up needing some.  On some Xterras, the rear body mount bolts end up being a little too long, so they are threaded all the way through, but the bolt head has some space between it and the lower half of the mount....a few extra M12 washers (or 7/16") can be used to fill in that gap to maintain pressure on the body mounts.

It should be noted:  For standard hardware (7/16"), the strongest grade bolt is Grade 8.  For metric hardware (M10, M12) the stronged grade bolt is Grade 10.9.  Don't get METRIC 8.8 confused with standard grade 8.  Metric 8.8 is slightly weaker than either of those.

Get the pucks from

===>"Zone Offroad - 2x3 Bulk Body Lift Blocks (single) #3296"

For your hardware, check out

They have all the hardware EXCEPT the M12 X 1.25 X 180mm long in grade 10.9.  They do have that size in metric grade 8.8, which some people have used on here without any issue.  However, these bolts will end up holding the cab of your truck on to the I managed to source a set of M12s from a user on here...I believe they got them from:

All in all, you can get all the nuts/bolts/washers/pucks for ~75 bucks or so.  Read the How To though, because there are a few things you need to fix or modify along the way which can add to the "total cost" of doing the lift.

The xterra is a frame rail truck...suspension holds up two steel beams which mount all of the tires and drive train.  The body of the truck is bolted to that frame in 10 locations...where the body lift pucks will go.  The pucks just serve as a spacer to lift the body 2" off of the frame rails.  Essentially what you do is unbolt all of the 10 existing body mounts, place a jack on the bottom of the cab's pinch seam, and lift the body one side at a time, then slide the spacer in place, and re assemble with the new bolts (which are essentially stock bolts, just 2" longer).  You have to look out for anything that attaches to BOTH the frame AND body...IE:  power steering reservoir is mounted in the engine bay to the body, but the hose goes down to a pump on the frame you need to make sure you have 2" of slack or you will pull the hose off.  Also, your bumpers are mounted to the frame, but are made to align with the body...they need to be relocated/shifted upwards ~2".

If you have any more questions, let me know.  I just installed the body lift on mine 2 months ago.



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